May
07

Monkey Business in Costa Rica

For us, nature was the main draw in Costa Rica. In pursuit of unspoiled natural environments, we headed to Drake Bay, a remote area off the beaten tourist track in the south of the country. We were not disappointed! We did a 4 km hike from Drake Bay along the coast to the beautiful San Josecito beach. This path took us through the jungle, with openings every several hundred metres to secluded beaches and rocky inlets along the coast.

During this beautiful hike, we spotted a troupe of white-faced capuchin monkeys. We were able to get quite close, but kept enough distance to watch their natural behaviours, including monkeys carefully dissecting and eating grasshoppers:

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

We were surprised to notice a monkey about to dig in to a huge grasshopper.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

It kept a watchful eye out for other monkeys, carefully protecting its delicious protein-filled lunch.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Of course, the head should be eaten first!

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Now it's time to get at the good stuff inside.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Tastes just like a chicken wing?

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Time to rip off all the useless packaging.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Success! Got all the goodies on the inside. Yum yum!

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Better unravel it and slurp up a long string of innards.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

After all the hard work to get the good stuff out, it's important to be extra vigilant.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

Another monkey started off by nibbling at each leg individually.

Capuchin Monkey eating insect

"Me? I'm not hiding anything." The legs sticking out of its mouth might be a bit of a giveaway.

Capuchin Monkey relaxing

Nothing is better than a tree-top siesta after a delicious snack of grasshoppers.

It may not be as epic as a lion taking down a zebra, but it was still pretty fascinating to watch monkeys catch and eat insects in their natural environment.

Apr
25

Off to a stinky start in Playas del Coco

Our two week trip to Costa Rica got off to a stinky start in Playas del Coco thanks to the arrival of a red tide in the area. This algal bloom is deadly to fish, the evidence of which we quickly saw and smelled along the beach, despite valiant efforts to bury fish in the well-travelled parts of the beach.

Playas del Coco

Hundreds of dead puffer fish lined the edges of the beach, likely accumulating because they are so much more challenging for scavengers to eat than the other types of fish that washed ashore.

Looking on the bright side, the presence of so many fish in the water and on the beach attracted lots of birds.

Playas del Coco

Local fishermen were still fishing, with some pulling in impressively large fish, so it seemed that the area wasn’t completely affected by the red tide.

Playas del Coco

Other than some stinky fish, which really can’t be controlled, we weren’t blown away by the beauty of the beach in Playas del Coco.  It has dark brown sand that doesn’t fulfill that stereotypical image of a pristine white sand beach.

Playas del Coco

It was also extremely dry on the coast and all the vegetation lining the coast was brown.  I imagine it’s much more beautiful during the wet season with lush, green trees lining the rocky coast.

Playas del Coco

The stinky fish and lack of jaw-dropping scenery couldn’t take away the one thing that mattered: it was sunny.  After months of frigid cold in northern Canada, all we wanted was to feel the hot sun on our skin and soak up some well-needed vitamin D.

Playas del Coco

Beyond the beach, there isn’t much in the town.  It did have pretty good nightlife, with quite a few restaurants and bars. We were there during the week before Easter, when most Costa Ricans are on holidays, and there were many Costa Ricans partying at night.

Even in such a busy place, we started spotting wildlife (other than dead fish!)   Right beside the beach there was an oriole nest hanging high in a tree.

Playas del Coco

Other animals found homes in less natural locations.

Playas del Coco

I hope they like the music!

Playas del Coco

Best roof-top patio in town.

Fortunately, our wildlife sightings were about to get much more exciting as we headed inland to the cloud forest, then south to Corcovado Park.  Overall, Coco Beach was nice, but not spectacular.  Since it was our only beach destination, it did the trick for us, but we would try out a different beach in the future.

 

Mar
13

Flying High

This weekend I chaperoned a group of high school girls on a trip to Yellowknife for Women of Aviation Week – Girls Fly Too! This was an awesome event designed to get girls interested in careers in aviation, with the big highlight being a free helicopter ride over Yellowknife.  Of course, I was there for the kids, but I was very happy to be told that I could go on a helicopter ride as well!

Helicopters landing in Yellowknife

Four helicopters took off one after the other, taking about 500 girls into the sky throughout the day.

Not only did I get to tag along on the helicopter ride, I was given the front seat because the girls flying with me were afraid to sit up there.  Sitting beside the pilot allows for unbelievable views to the front, side, and even below through a window on the floor.

Helicopter ride over Yellowknife

It was a nice sunny day, but the view over Yellowknife still looked somewhat desolate with snow covering the lakes, land, and buildings.  It’s only from above that I could really appreciate the sheer amount of water that surrounds Yellowknife, which is situated on the shore of Great Slave Lake (the ninth largest lake in the world).

Helicopter ride over Yellowknife

There was a shock of colour as we flew over Yellowknife Bay and spotted one of the most unique sights of Yellowknife, its houseboat community.  While it looks like these houseboats are regular houses sitting on land in the photo, they are actually sitting on ice and their residents can only drive to their homes when the water freezes solid in the dead of winter. While life is easy during the winter, when the ice begins to break up in the spring, it gets trickier.  At this time, residents can no longer walk or drive on the ice but cannot yet navigate through the ice in a canoe or other boat.

Houseboats on Yellowknife Bay

Each boat is unique and there are many photos online that showcase the variety of colourful houses.  From the air, it seemed like I was looking down at tiny models of houses.  During the winter, it is very hard to picture these homes floating on the water. In fact, most of these houseboats cannot move through the water, and are more of a floating home than an actual boat.  Some wonder why someone would want to have a houseboat in the north where it will sit on ice for a large part of the year.  One nice advantage is not having to pay property taxes.  The other major advantage is having a 360 degree waterfront property with beautiful views over the lake, especially during the summer.  Not to mention, it’s peaceful, there are no neighbours, and just about any shade of paint imaginable suits a houseboat.  I need to come back during the summer to see the houseboats in their element on the open water.

Houseboats on Yellowknife Bay

While living up north poses plenty of challenges, there are also tons of amazing opportunities available for northern residents. In fact, this is the second free helicopter ride I’ve gotten up north, with the first being an amazing ride over Wood Buffalo National Park.  I can’t wait to get up in a helicopter again someday, although I’m afraid to hear how much it might cost!

Feb
19

Capturing the Aurora Borealis

For those brave enough to cope with the inhumanely frigid temperatures and endless hours of darkness that come with winter in the north, there is a beautiful reward: the spectacular light show of the aurora borealis.

Aurora Borealis

The aurora borealis, more commonly called the northern lights, or simply the aurora, light up the northern sky with streaks of beautiful colour that seem to dance across the sky. In the just over two years we’ve lived here, we have experienced many degrees of the aurora borealis, from faint streaks of green visible in one section of the sky, to a sky full of a huge arc of vibrant green and pink, so bright it lights up the ground below. Green is the most common colour, with pink being much more rare. This Tuesday, we were drawn to look at the lights by the common green, but were pleasantly surprised when pink aurora began to cross the sky, a fitting colour for Valentine’s Day, not to mention, a much better gift than a box of chocolate!

Aurora Borealis

Tuesday night was typical of most of our aurora experiences. We took our dog for his evening walk and noticed the aurora in the sky, visible, but diminished by the light given off by street lights and houses. Other than relying on seeing the aurora ourselves, we also check the aurora forecast by the Geophysical Institute at the University of Alaska. Knowing that the aurora borealis is always more impressive away from the light of town, we drive down to the boat launch at the Slave River where we get to see the full intensity of the northern lights as they fill the dark sky.

Aurora Borealis
Despite having lived in the north for a few years, we had yet to take pictures of the aurora. I think we were intimidated by the challenge it imposed, not to mention a genuine fear of losing fingers holding a camera during the winter. Tuesday night, we finally brought our camera and decided to try getting a few shots. We knew that the most important technique for getting photos of the aurora is long exposure time, in order to capture all the light they emit. However, we didn’t have a tripod, and it quickly became apparent that neither of us had the steady hands required to hold a camera still for 30 seconds. So, we used the roof of our car as a make-shift tripod and it seemed to work! We were pretty shocked that the photos actually turned out, and other than cropping and straightening, we didn’t do any editing so we could show what the colours really look like. It was also surprising to see that not only did we capture the lights, but also the stars that filled the sky.

Aurora Borealis

The car roof made a great tripod!

While photos of the aurora can be breathtaking, they will never fully capture two of the most spectacular features of the aurora. The first is the sheer expanse of the aurora, which stretch from horizon to horizon in a giant arc across the sky. It is impossible for human eyes to see the full arc of the aurora, even with an awestruck head stretched as far back as the neck will physically allow. Nor can photos capture how dynamic the aurora are. While in photos, it simply looks like the sky was painted with a stroke of colourful light, in reality, the aurora are constantly moving, seeming to dance across the sky, constantly changing in intensity and even colour. It is literally breathtaking, particularly in combination with the cold winter air!

Aurora Borealis

Not only are the aurora visible behind me, but I can see a show in front of me as well!

With such an amazing display of surreal light, the aurora have inspired many to believe they have special powers. Here, local Aboriginal elders warn that if you whistle at the northern lights, they will sweep down to earth and take you away. While the aurora borealis seems mysterious and magical, there is a scientific explanation for this incredible natural phenomenon. When energized particles shoot out of the sun, they are carried by solar winds into our atmosphere at extremely high speeds.  Here, they smash into nitrogen and oxygen atoms, pushing the atoms into excited states. When the atoms go back to ground state, they release a photon of light, resulting in the amazing aurora we see from earth. The type of atom being excited and its altitude create different colours. Green is released by oxygen atoms, pink by nitrogen atoms, and yellow is visible when there is a mix of green and pink in the sky.   

Aurora Borealis

When atoms drop to an 'unexcited' state, it sure looks exciting!

If you want to see the northern lights yourself, you could join the thousands of tourists who brave the cold each year to come to the Northwest Territories in search of the aurora.  Even if you can’t make it up to the north, you can view the northern lights from the Aurora MAX observatory in Yellowknife, where a camera takes live shots of the aurora borealis.

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